If the displacement is excessive, the kayak will float too high, catch the wind and waves uncomfortably, and handle poorly; [6] it will probably also be bigger and heavier and than it needs to be.
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Being excessively big will create more drag, and the kayak will move more slowly and take more effort. On the other hand, a higher deck will keep the paddler s dryer and make self-rescue and coming through surf easier. Maximum volume in a sit-in kayak is helped by a wide hull with high sides. But paddling ease is helped by lower sides where the paddler sits and a narrower width.
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There seem to be no anthropometry stats of kayakers, who may not be representative of the general population. In the American civilian population of the early s, about 0. As a general rule, a longer kayak is faster: it has a higher hull speed. It can also be narrower for a given displacement, reducing the drag, and it will generally track follow a straight line better than a shorter kayak.
On the other hand, it is less manueverable. Very long kayaks are less robust, and may be harder to store and transport. Kayaks that are built to cover longer distances such as touring and sea kayaks are longer, generally 16 to 19 feet 4. With touring kayaks the keel is generally more defined helping the kayaker track in a straight line. Whitewater kayaks, which generally depend upon river current for their forward motion, are short, to maximize maneuverability. These kayaks rarely exceed 8 feet 2. Recreational kayak designers try to provide more stability at the price of reduced speed, and compromise between tracking and maneuverability, ranging from 9—14 feet 2.
Length alone does not fully predict a kayak's maneuverability: a second design element is rocker , i. A heavily rockered boat curves more, shortening its effective waterline. For example, an foot 5.
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Rocker is generally most evident at the ends, and in moderation improves handling. Similarly, although a rockered whitewater boat may only be a few feet shorter than a typical recreational kayak, its waterline is far shorter and its maneuverability far greater. When surfing, a heavily rockered boat is less likely to lock into the wave as the bow and stern are still above water. A boat with less rocker cuts into the wave and makes it harder to turn while surfing. The overall width of a kayak's cross section is its beam. A wide hull is more stable, and packs more displacement into a shorter length.
A narrow hull has less drag and is generally easier to paddle; in waves it will ride more easily and stay dryer. A narrower kayak makes a somewhat shorter paddle appropriate and a shorter paddle puts less strain on the shoulder joints. Some paddlers are comfortable with a sit-in kayak so narrow that their legs extend fairly straight out. Others want sufficient width to permit crossing their legs inside the kayak. Primary sometimes called initial stability describes how much a boat tips, or rocks back and forth, when displaced from level by paddler weight shifts.
Secondary stability describes how stable a kayak feels when put on edge or when waves are passing under the hull perpendicular to the length of the boat. For kayak rolling , tertiary stability, or the stability of an upside-down kayak, is also important lower tertiary stability makes rolling up easier. Primary stability is often a big concern to a beginner, while secondary stability matters both to beginners and experienced travelers.
By example, a wide, flat-bottomed kayak will have high primary stability and feel very stable on flat water. However, when a steep wave breaks on such a boat, it can be easily overturned because the flat bottom is no longer level. By contrast, a kayak with a narrower, more rounded hull with more hull flare can be edged or leaned into waves and in the hands of a skilled kayaker provides a safer, more comfortable response on stormy seas. Kayaks with only moderate primary, but excellent secondary stability are, in general, considered more seaworthy , especially in challenging conditions.
The shape of the cross section affects stability, maneuverability, and drag. This cross—section may vary along the length of the boat. A chine typically increases secondary stability by effectively widening the beam of the boat when it heels tips. A V-shaped hull tends to travel straight track well, but makes turning harder. V-shaped hulls also have the greatest secondary stability. Conversely, flat-bottomed hulls are easy to turn, but harder to direct in a constant direction.
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A round-bottomed boat has minimal wetter area, and thus minimizes drag; however, it may be so unstable that it will not remain upright when floating empty, and needs continual effort to keep it upright. In a skin-on-frame kayak, chine placement may be constrained by the need to avoid the bones of the pelvis. The position of the center of gravity is affected by body shape. The lower the CoG, the higher the primary stability. Two different approaches to giving beginners more stability; left, a wider kayak, right, outriggers lashed across the stern deck.
The body of the paddler must also be taken into account. A paddler with a low center of gravity will find all boats more stable; for a paddler with a high center of gravity, all boats will feel tippier. On average, women and children have a lower COG than men. Newcomers will often want a craft with high primary stability see above. The southern method is a wider kayak.
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The northern method is a removable pair of outriggers, lashed across the stern deck. If the floats are set so that they are both in the water, they give primary stability, but produce more drag. If they are set so that they are both out of the water when the kayak is balanced, they give secondary stability. Traditional-style and some modern types of kayaks e. Other kayaks offer a different sitting position, in which the paddler's legs are not stretched out in front of them, and the thigh brace bears more on the inside than the top of the thighs see diagram.
A kayaker must be able to move the hull of their kayak by moving their lower body, and brace themselves against the hull mostly with the feet on each stroke. Most kayaks therefore have footrests and a backrest. Some kayaks fit snugly on the hips; others rely more on thigh braces. Mass-produced kayaks generally have adjustable bracing points. Many paddlers also customize their kayaks by putting in shims of closed-cell foam, or more elaborate structure, to make it fit more tightly.
Paddling puts substantial force through the legs, alternately with each stroke. The knees should therefore not be hyperextended. Separately, if the kneecap is in contact with the boat, this will cause pain and may injure the knee. Insufficient foot space will cause painful cramping and inefficient paddling.
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The paddler should generally be in a comfortable position. Attempting to lift and carry a kayak by oneself or improperly is a significant cause of kayaking injuries. Today almost all kayaks are commercial products intended for sale rather than for the builder's personal use.
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Fiberglass hulls are stiffer than polyethylene hulls, but they are more prone to damage from impact, including cracking. Most modern kayaks have steep V sections at the bow and stern, and a shallow V amidships. Fiberglass kayaks need to be "laid-up" in a mold by hand, so are usually more expensive than polyethylene kayaks, which are rotationally molded in a machine.
Plastic kayaks are rotationally molded 'rotomolded' from a various grades and types of polyethylene resins ranging from soft to hard. Such kayaks are particularly resistant to impact. Wooden hulls don't necessarily require significant skill and handiwork, depending on how they are made. Kayaks made from thin strips of wood sheathed in fiberglass have proven successful, especially as the price of epoxy resin has decreased in recent years.
After cutting out the required pieces of hull and deck kits often have these pre-cut , a series of small holes are drilled along the edges. Copper wire is then used to "stitch" the pieces together through the holes. After the pieces are temporarily stitched together, they are glued with epoxy and the seams reinforced with fiberglass. When the epoxy dries, the copper stitches are removed. Sometimes the entire boat is then covered in fiberglass for additional strength and waterproofing though this adds greatly to the weight and is unnecessary.
Construction is fairly straightforward, but because plywood does not bend to form compound curves, design choices are limited. This is a good choice for the first-time kayak builder as the labor and skills required especially for kit versions is considerably less than for strip-built boats which can take 3 times as long to build.